Today we present to you Thomas from our Scooter Center – Team.
When you shop with us in the Scooter Center local shop, you know Thomas certainly as friendly and knowledgeable specialist for Vespa P / PX – his Fender Bass, however, he has rarely in the store …
Facts
Name: Thomas J.
Year: 1980
Hobbys: Vespa! Playing bass and film & video editing.
Mission: Customer Service & Video editor.
Task: Vespa PX & Smallframe
My 5 favorite products in Scooter Center:
The first Series of the Vespa V50 differs in some details to the later version that is much more common.
The early V50’s for instance have the frame numbers V5A1*1001* up to *92877 and V5SA1*1001* up to *15325*.
Differences of the first Series are the suspension, the fixing of the rear brake plate with M6 studs, the three speed gear box, the 9 inch wheels or the shorter wheelbase. There are lots of small differences and unique is the engine as well.
If it comes to give this a little more power, there are some things that should be considered.
The original engine put out slightly more than one horse power (1.2 hp to be specific). This in conjunction with a very tall primary drive ratio of 3.72 and a very big gap between second and third gear make this engine anything else than a good performer.
So if you want to use the first Series for anything else than collecting dust, fitting a larger cc cylinder kit is very advisable.
The cylinder neck and the engine casings are smaller on the V50 1. than on the later models. This makes fitting of all the cylinder kits impossible. To cure this problem we have a ready machined cylinder kit on offer.
It’s the Polini 75cc kit in the so called Racing trim. With a good power band and a maximum power of 4 hp it is the right choice to pull the tall gearing. The good power band even copes with the large between 2nd and 3rd gear.
The cylinder base is machined to fit to the smaller diameter at the casings
The cylinder base is machined to fit to the smaller diameter at the casings
Included to our cylinder kit is the speed nut M6 for fixing the flywheel cowl and cylinder cowl. This is necessary because the mounting points are on a slightly different place on the first Series.
Polini recommends a ignition timing setting of 17° for this kit. If you are still using the contact breaker ignition system you can use a testing lamp to set the ignition timing at 1.4mm before to dead centre.
Depending on the exhaust used and if a racing crankshaft has been fitted you should adjust your main jet accordingly to it. The fitting instruction of Polini says a main jet of 66-68 for the SHB 16 is right. We found that a main jet between 74-84 is right.
These carb kits are a good choice for the cylinder kit:
If you have to give the engine a going over anyway to replace the usual suspects like wear & tear parts as the gear selector, gaskets and oil seals, you should think about fitting a Rracing crankshaft …
as well as a short 3rd gear
The racing crankshaft gives a better filling and hance a higher torque figure. The shorter third gear gives a better gap between 2nd and 3rd gear and makes steadier accelerating and riding two up much more fun.
Modern day cylinder kits and full expansion chambers give amazing power outputs to the Smallframe Vespa. Setups like the Polini Evo used with the Big Bertha expansion chamber like on our Generation XI, give more than 24Nm torque at the rear wheel.
To get the power from the top end to the bottom emd you have the clutch unit. With the high power outputs the clutch is under enormous stress. This connection has to be built with the needed care to get it reliable and long lasting.
Good practise these days is to grind-in the clutch on the auxiliary shaft with valve grinding paste and afterwards to tighten down the primary drive and clutch nut to 70 Nm.
Specially for these high torque settings we have clutch- and primary drive nuts in high tensile steel. These even sustain torque settings much higher htan 70 Nm. Because these are collar nuts the usually used securing washers are no longer needed. Good practice is to use screw retaining glue.
To avoid any damages to the clutch basket and primary drive while putting such high torque figu´res thru the wrench, we have a new clutch holding tool now.
With this neat tool inner baskets of the V50/XL1 clutch
As well as clutch inner basket of the PK XL2 can be locked for tightning down the nut.
Innenkorb PK XL2
The usual blocking of the primary drive the force put into the engine components is so high that they can easily be damaged.
Our clutch holding tool can be rested against a nut on the primary drive or against a screw fitted to the thread of the engine casings.
So the high torque figures are not transmitted to the bearing seats or the cushion drive.
With our Multitool the clutch can even be assembled while fitted in the engine.
| 1. Place | Name | Scooter | 2. Place | Name | Scooter | |
| Best of All | 7 | Ladwig Tobias | Vespa Sprint “Hot Choclate” | |||
| Best Custom | 128 | Ladwig Tobias | Vespa VNB “Trend Killer” | 8 | Lehmann Kim | Vespa V50 “Spongy” |
| Best Streetcustom | 27 | Maik Ediger | Vespa PX “Sportster” | 12 | Pekrul Dirk | Vespa VB1T “Smokey & the Bandit” |
| Best Racer | 138 | Christian Lohey | Vespa PX | 14 | Schnee Karsten | Vespa V50N “SSR Falc Racer” |
| Best Oldie | 139 | Nagy Andreas | Vespa Acma 1952 | 141 | Tillmann Siebott | Vespa Gespann |
| Best Oddity | 6 | kusters rob | Vespa PX “Porno Lowrider” | 2 | Büscher Marc | Vespa P125X “Donnerbude” |
| Best Plating | 7 | Ladwig Tobias | Vespa Sprint “Hot Choclate” | entfällt | ||
| Best Bodywork | 19 | Stefan Meyer | Vespa “Sei Giorni” | 3 | Dreizehn Daniel | Vespa V50 Special “Shitstorm” |
| Best Paint | 15 | Schneider Christian | Lambretta DL200 | 128 | Ladwig Tobias | Vespa VNB “Trend Killer” |
| Best Display | Die Achse | Clubstand | 130 | Höfler Christian | Electric Orange, Yellow Dreams, 80s Style |
| 1. Place | Name | Scooter | 2. Place | Name | Scooter | |
| Best of All | 48 | Florian Kowalczyk | Yamaha Aerox | |||
| Best Custom | 113 | Rene von Rüden | Peugeot Speedfight 2 “RvR Twin” | 73 | Maximilian Vogt | Yamaha Aerox |
| Best Streetcustom | 123 | Tobias Ernst | Gilera Runner “Chrombomber” | 69 | Marcel Frank | Peugeot Speedfight 2 |
| Best Racer | 118 | Mauricio Wilhelm | Piaggio ZIP SP1 “Polini Cup Zip” | 117 | Tina Iwanitzki | Piaggio ZIP SP1 |
| Best Sprinter | 41 | Drewes Björn | KRT Framework “Leiter” | 125 | Adriano Innocente | Yamaha BWs |
| Best Oddity | 72 | Klaus Matzat | Yamaha Aerox “Körper” | |||
| Best Oddity | 75 | Mellaerts Ruben | Dreirad “SCOOT³” | 108 | Thomas Schulz | Eigenbau |
| Best Plating | 135 | Tylla Florian | Piaggio NRG | 87 | Platz, Willmann Fabian, Pascal | Peugeot Jetforce |
| 58 | Heuter Daniel | Yamaha Aerox | ||||
| Best Bodywork | 60 | Höninger Marvin | Yamaha Jog RR “Carbo Carbonis” | 133 | reinartz alexander | Yamaha Aerox “BoBa” |
| Best Paint | 48 | Florian Kowalczyk | Yamaha Aerox | 89 | Polte Matthias | Yamaha Aerox “Schätzchen” |
| Best Display | 99 | Sascha Balthun | Yamaha Aerox “Big EVO Roxy” | 111 | Vanneste Gatien | Nextro Prestige |
To do the first dyno runs, we just had to fit the cables. You might remember?
The engine came at least the idel and main jet, while the needle were missing.
The needle is very important for a smooth engine run and picking the right one can be tricky. In our online shop, you can find our pre-selction of needles. All these are good working ones on scooter engines. Here you see our dyno colletion of the D needles only.
Kleine Auswahl an Keihin Nadeln
From our experiences and findings the DGL needle works very well on rotary valve engines. The DEK needle with which the Keihin 35 is delivered, is a little bit on the rich side low down.
Next step is to check the timing of the ignition system. Vespatronic. Sadly the welded engine casing makes it necessary to modify the stator plate. And even more sad, it is where the ignition marks are and after the mods are done were.
We need to do new markings using a piston stopper. Using a piston stopper we fimitteln wir wie immer durch eine Umschlagsmessung.
We know turn the flywheel clockwise and anti clockwise untill it is blocked b ythe stopper.
Kolbenstopper zur Umschlagsmessung
We know mark the stops at the casing with the arrow on the flywheel as reference. This need to natch exactly, sadly the camera doesn’t justice to this at the picture.
OT Markierung 1
We know need to find the middle between the two marks. This is our top dead centre.
After finding the top dead centre, we know need to figure out where our 18° pre-ignition settimng is.
We measure the circumfarance of the flywheel.
This is 529 mm. If you divide this by 360, you know the mm of the circumfarance that equals 1°. We take this and multiplie it with the wanted 18°.
Here it is like this: 529/360*18= 26.45 mm.
We know measure this 26.45 mm on the flywheel starting from the arrow on the flywheel.
Know it is time to strobe the setting to be sure that everything is spot on.
We found the ignition timing is 16° instead of the 18°. We leave it as it is for the moment and idle the engine up for the first runs.
While warming the engine up and switching thru the gears, we find the 3rd gear jumps out. Damn! Okay, the solution for the moment is to measure it in fourth. Because of the higher gearing the power output is not as high as it would be in the 3rd gear. Which is normally used for dyno work.
First try…
The carb setting is too rich. The power before the exhaust starts to work is very bad.
We change the idle jet to a 45 and see…
Because we are not 100% happyyet, we try the 145 main next::
We haven’t found more peak power. But the graph is much smoother and the engine responds much better to the throttle action. Something you simply can’t picture with a graph only.
Now we change the ignition timing to 18°…
That was it, more power before the pipe starts to work, more peak and more torque.
Now we finish with a run thru all four gears.
20 hp in third gear. Mission completed.
The Germanscooterforum is Germany’s leading one for geared scooters. Kind soul have donated parts and money to build a proper 20 hp plus engine that is going to auctioned for a good cause.
Detailed info about the project can be found at the forum: germanscooterforum. If you use a translating tool, you will get at least the rough meanings.
All the collected parts and necessary workmanship was collected and now we have the engine here for dynoing it. At least 20 hp needs to be seen.
This should be easy to achieve with a lot of brain powr that went into it. To mention to names only: Mathias Scherer and Jochen Undesser brought in their magic tuning abilities.
Lots of donators said they will donate amount x per hp at the rear wheel. So it gets exciting.
Today we fitted the engine to the test bed and fprepared it for being dynoed.
As soon as the cables are connected the action will start!
This is the basic layout:
Cylinder Polini 133 “cast iron”
Carb: Keihin 35 Airstriker
Crankshaft with 51 mm stroke and 97 mm con rod
Exhaust: Ludwig & Scherer -Franz-
We are looking forward to see the power output! Any guessing out there?
Today a customer and friend of Scooter Center popped in to see how the bgm PRO MRB Big BOx is performing.
The Mugello kit came in tuned to 128° transfer and 190° exhaust timing.
The carb is a 34 mm Koso and the ignition system fitted is the Varitronic.
The Style63 exhaust made nearly 29 hp.
If you compare the expansion chambers and the Big Box peak power wise they win.
But when it comes to a smooth to ride engine that is easy to hold into the power band than the Big Box is the winner again.
The ignition timing was set to 23°-15°, what is okay for the hig revving monsters. But even with that expansion chamber setting the Clubman out-performs the expansion with roughly 3 hp and 3 Nm more torque low down.
At around 5.600 rpm the JL and Style63 start to perform and double the horse power within a powre range of 1.000 rpm. Right for ‘general hooligan behaviour around twon’ to quote one of our favs from a Scootering exhaust test back from the ninties.
Steady acceleration can be found marked red in the dyno sheet!
After our testing of the bgm PRO MRB Big Box Clubman on TS1 engines, we thought it might be a good idea to test the pipes on the Test Bike.
The engine on it is fitted with the bgm PRO MRB RaceTour 225 kit, bgm PRO 60 mm crankshaft and 30 mm carb. The cylinder kit is unmodified and as it will be on serial production.
Beside the Big Box Clubman we have the JL3 and the Ancillotti.
This is the bgm PRO Clubman vs. Sito Ancillotti
As we saw it on the TS1 testing the power and torque advantages of the Big Box Clubman are there. Up to 7.000 U/min there is 1 hp and 2 Nm of torque for the Clubman.
bgm PRO MRB Big Box vs. JL KRP3
From 4.500 rpm to 8.500 rpm (!) the Clubman has more than 1 hp more. There isn’t a chance for the JL 3 even not when you consider the slight dip in the torque.
The conclusion is that the bgm PRO Clubman is a good choice for ported and un-ported cylinder kits. Especially the torque and pwer delivery makes it the choice of weapon on all road applications!
Today we continued our bgm MRB Big Box exhaust test. to continue the testing we have fitted a MRB tuned TS1. This TS1 has undergone the RaceTour tune from Mark Broadhurst. The engine remained the same and is the one fitted to red GP 150.
The MRB tuned cylinder kit comes with the MB forged piston, Tassinari V-Force reeds and a head machined by Mark for ultimate reliability. The Mikuni TMX30 was still used.
TS1 cylinder kit versus MRB tuned TS1 to RaceTour specs, both using the bgm PRO MRB Big Box Clubman:
bgm PRO MRB Big Box Clubman versus the Sito Ancillotti:
bgm PRO Clubman versus JL3/Road expansion chamber:
With the JL3/Road being a much favoured exhaust (for what ever reasons) we tested our Big Box Clubman against it too. When looking at the dyno sheets, you shouldn’t be to focused on the peak power alone. Even if peak is 3 hp more, you should compare the width of the power band instead. Or at least as well. If you compare the delivery of power from around 4.600 – 9500 rpm the power delivery is only slightly better, but the more power low down should make the Big Box engine the easier and faster to ride one. Mainly because you easily stay into the power band and don’t have to change gears all the time.
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Upshot: The bgm PRO MRB Big Box Clubman works on all setups. From original to proper tuned TS1 engines. Watch this space for more dyno work coming!
We have dynoed the upcoming bgm PRO MRB Big Box Clubman today again, this was mainly done to shorten our waiting time. The Big Box will be in stock early march 2013!
Testing was done on Ulf’s every day GP equipped with a touring spec ported TS1 and the TMX30.
Comparsion was done against the Ancillotti and the favoured (for whatreasons ever) JL Road KRP3.
These are the tested pipes!
The Big Box gives more power, broad(y)er power band and more torque. More than 2.5 Nm torque and 2 hp from 4.700 rpm to 6.700 rpm is something you easily feel on the road and that gives better acceleration too.
This shows the comparsion between our Big Box and the KRP3 or JL Road.
Even with a little bit more on peak the JL has no chance to out perform the Big Box on the road. The better power and torque figures from 4.500 rpm to 5.500 rpm are the points that count for the Big Box.
Und hier noch einmal alle Tourer im Vergleich.
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This is the final report about our pre-Xmas dyno shootout!
The 29.9 hp at the rear wheel of a Cast Polini 133 cylinder kit with 54mm bgm crankshaft, Keihin PWK35AS carb and Feuerzauber exhaust had to be bettered.
With 29.3 hp Jonas did very well, but missed the goal. Followed by Mathias with 29.2 hp on a Polini 133 rotary inlet engine.
Together -Jonas and Scooter Center- decided to donate the 100€ shopping voucher for “scooterist-chairty / GSF-Spendenaktion.
Scooter Center likes the idea and is addiotionally offering free dyno time to set up the Charity engine.
The gallery shows the atmosphere of the dyno shootout. Something that will hopefully continued very soon. What do you think?fin
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Because virtual reality can hardly ever beat proper live action, we recommend to have a look at the small but mean Smallframe engines the next time.
Thanks to all the people that dropped in during the day. It was pure fun and we hope to see you soon!
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On the 16th of March Twisted Pistons S. C. Aachen and Scooter Center present the 6th edition of the Scootershow at the Abenteuer Hallen Kalk in Cologne.
The new bike and skate venue www.abenteuerhallenkalk.de/bs/ will be used to display all sorts of scooters. And when we say all sorts of scoots, we mean it. From 50cc Twist & Go’s, classic Vespa and Lambretta scooters up to the modern day Vespas. On more than 1.000 m² place in a stunning atmosphere, we are going to present this top event!
There will be the full range from customs to racers, from gold and chrome plating to 50 year old original paint.
Additionally there will be a private parts fare. There isn’t a fee, but registration is needed. So don’t hesitate, if you want to sell parts and email to: teilemarkt@scooter-center.com.
Programme:
Here you can get your tickets:
www.scooter-center.com
Scooter Center xmas final. On the last two Fridays before Christmas, 14th and 21st December 2012, we invite all of you to our shop in Glessen between 10am and 5pm. Program for you:
· Dyno competition in different categories
· Irish coffee
· Warm pretzels
· Hardcore engines
· 20 % discount in our shop (codeword: Xmas)
· Who beats Alex on our dyno?*
* With a Smallframe up to 140cc (one exhaust and regular intake)!
From now on all bgm Super Strong clutches are equipped with our new bgm Pro clutch springs.
Of course our bgm Pro XL springs also fit in all other Cosa clutches from Piaggio, MMW and Newfren.
The springs are made in Germany from the material Oteva70 ®, a material which is specially designed for high dynamic loads, block resistance and high frequencies.
Because of its properties, the material is typically used in high quality valves and springs.
This means in the case of our Vespa clutch:
– practically no fatigue slope, the strain of the spring remains constant bgm Pro.
– bgm Pro springs are stable block. That means even if the spring is compressed repeatedly to the extent, the spring returns back to its original length.
The pre-tensioning remains the same.
Our bgm Superstrong clutch, equipped with bgm Pro XL springs also resists Largeframe engines with 25Nm torque on the rear wheel.
Good tools bring even more fun to the workshop. Jobs aren’t a mess anymore and can be done properly.
Our bgm Multitool bgm8819 contains bgm8811 and bgm8812.
The bgm8811 tool is the flywheel extractor (M28x1) for all Vespa scooters with electronic ignitions. Starting at the OEM PX flywheels to the electronic conversion for the Vespa Sprint/VBB and V50/Primavera. At the same time it is a clutch extractor tool for the Vespa Smallframe.
Together with tool bgm8812 it gets even more complete. Because you have the clutch compressing tool too. And it is a very clever clutch tool too. You can replace clutch plates with the clutch still fitted to the engine. Handy, eh?
Especially handy, because you don’t have to lock up the primary drive any more to get the clutch nut undone. If you have a 12 spring PK-XL2 clutch you will love it even more, when everything stays in place.
The clutch compressing tool fits to all PK and V50, PV, ET3 and the Polini double Spring Kclutches with 3 and 4 plates. 
After the clutch coverand the pressure plate are off, tool bgm 8811 is screwed into the thread.
Afterwards clutch compressing tool bgm8812 comes on top.
And the nut, washer and screw (part of tool bgm8811) are used to compress the clutch.
As soon as the steel plates are spinning free the securing clip can be taken of. Now you are ready to replace the plates.
Before the tool will be released the oil guide plate and -important!- the securing clip need to be fitted.
Job done!
Our test engine is running, we let it warm up properly. The jetting seems to be right with idle jet 48/160, air correcter jet of 160, atomizer BE3 and main of 140. So now we will see how powerful this engine is.
First of all the gear ratio needs to be measured. We measure this at least twice to be 100% sure. The gear ratio is 3.21. This can even be typed manually into the dyno software at a later date.
When you are operarting a dyno a scientific operation is a good gesture to make sure that the results can be compared. After the first three runs we see that the power output is always nearly the same. A good sign, here is the best result:
Nice to see that the engine starts to lift the power low down in the rev range. As expected from the Polini kit. A quick road test shows that is a treat to use on the street. At slightly higher idle revs of 3.500 rpm the engine pushes -thanks to 17 Nm- heavily.
The inlet induction sound is nice too. The Polini solution works not just power wise, it reduces induction sound as well. The adaptor has a small collar built in that breaks up the acoustic wave what gives a very discret induction sound.
Back from the road testing to the dyno, we take a closer look to the head design. Next we are going to test the MMW head. The previous fitted Worb head gave a squish clearance of 1.7mm. To achieve this with the MMW head we are going to fit a 0.7mm head gasket. One quick note: Never combine normal head gasket with O-rings on heads. This doesn’t work on the road. For short testing on the dyno it can be done though. And we needed to do this to make the heads test comparable with the same squish clearance.
After some more runs we have a direct comparsion of the heads:
RED: MMW
BLUE: Worb5
The higher power output of the MMW head is caused by the slightly higher (but still road safe) compression ratio and the difference in the combustion chamber design.
The highest torque reading is still at 4700 rpm, but rises to very good 22 Nm. At 7k rpm we still have 17 hp and 17 Nm. God figures for high speed motorway use.
The 60mm MMW head we are not going to test anymore. Not because we are lazy, it is more because there is no sense in it all. We already saw that the higher compression works. the 60mm version would reduce this, so we are not to keen to loose power.
A wider power band with a little more peak power at high revs would be nice though. This really seperates good road engines from the very fast ones that are hard to catch on open roads.
Well… what could be done. Something like a luxury problem here. A good working engine with nice power output in a useable rev range and we are still thinking of how it could improved.
There it is our MBgm Vespa BIG BOX. Sounds like fun to get this on the Polini. Doesn’t it?
This should be done tomorrow!
Stay tuned!
Only a few stepd left untill we can dyno test our new engine.
The engine will go into the Silver Fern and be tested for Rally going and daily commuting then.
While fitting the flywheel care must been taken that the slot in the flywheel cone aligns with the woodruf key.
Afterwards the flywheel nut can be tightened down to 65Nm. The washer needs to be fitted, otherwise the nut will come loose.
The rear brake drum goes on the shaft next. We only put it on loose and fix it with the nut.
As sson as the rear brake is adjusted we will tighten it down to 110Nm. Securing cage and splint must be there.
For adjusting the clutch you need a little bit play at the clutch lever. This should be around 1.5mm and 2mm.
Oil and fuel hose are connected. folgen. The air bubble at the oil hose is a very good indication to see if there is oil pumped into the carb.
But the air bubble shouldn’t be much bigger than that. Otherwise there is the risk that the oil pump runs dry. And so will do the lubrication then.
For the first firing we fill the fuel tank up with 1 litre of oil petrol mixture of 4%. This should be done to have a proper lubricated engine from the start and to compensate the oil pumps delay.
The engine starts and we let it idle for a while. Then we see that all cables are connected properly. We rund down to fourth and everything is okay. The clutch works perfect.And the oil pump operates as well.
So we are ready for the first dyno sessions. Watch this space.
Today we found the time to have a look at the port timings of the Polini kit.
With a 1mm base gasket one look at the degree disc shows us transfer port timings of 125° and exhaust timing of 172°. This results in a blow down timing of 23.5°.
Figures that really worth to try on the dyno and figures that should result in fast road engine with torque capable of raching high revs for good speed.
We have three different cylinder head designs to test on the engine. And this will be the first mod on the dyno.
We are going to try the MMW for 57mm stroke, the MMW for 60mmstroke as well as the Worb5 head for 57mm stroke.
On a first sight at the head we have a look at the squish clearance. The MMW 57mm version is a little bit tight at our 60mm crank. The squish would be 1mm on our setup, but well worth to try it with an additional head gasket. The MMW head for 60mm stroke is designed with a recess for the longer stroke. Used with our 1mm base gasket to achieve the right port timings we have a squish clearance of 2.7mm. So we have this head as an option if we want to try the setup without the base gasket. If we don’t use the base gasket anymore the port timings are lowered, but with the effect that the blow down timing is increasing. This is because of the greater reduction of transfer timing compared to the exhaust timing.
The Worb5 head is machined for the 57mm stroke, but with more squish clearance machined into the head. So we have a very useable squish clearance of 1.7mm without additional head gasket.
The different combustion chamber designs we will test on the dyno the next days. Can’t wait!
But the carb ist still waiting for fitment. And there are some important steps on the way to take care off.
First of all you have to be careful with the use of sealer. On self-lubrication Vespas the hole marked red in the picture feeds crankshaft, barrel and flywheel side bearing wih oil. If this is blocked no oil gets in and the trouble free miles will be very limited.
The very basic design of the SI carb range is very soli. But one to watch out for is the mounting of the carb, this can easily be destroyed.
If the nuts are over tightened the carb is warped and a sticking slide is the result of it.At least the later version of the SI carb is improved in this area and the nuts can’t bend the carb so that the slide sticks.
The pictures shows this feature on the later carbs and this recess can easily be done to later SI carbs.
But even on the later version the carb nuts shouldn’t be tightened not more than 16-18Nm. And they shouldnot be fully tightened from the start. Instead tighten they evenly and in turn.
For the carb mounting there are two different version available as well.
The “old” version with studs and sleeve nuts are there untill the SI carb was used first. The new version was introduced with self lubrication P-ranges labelled EFL, Arcobaleno or Lusso.
The ida came up because this was easier to fit. Carbs without self-lubrication are fitted with a very long air adjuster screw and slide hook.
Before the carb is fitted into its box we cut a slot into the air adjuster screw this makes adjustment much easier on a later point.
Damn, we spoilt it!
That happens too often. So you have to take care that the hook hits the clip of the oil pump.
If the carb is fitted like the one pictured, it simply won’t work and you foul the slide hook.
Studs for carb fitment are not supporting good work flow and Piaggio introduced the sleeved screw. But this advantage brings a risk.
The screw next to the end of the scoots is located right above the rotary valve.
If you don’t use the right washer and spring washer the rotary valve surface will for sure be destroyed.
Tighten it down in steps of 8, 12, 16 Nm.
The Polini bellmouth is secured by only one screw. The idle adjustment screw can be used to get the location of the glory hole right. So simply adjust it that idle adjustment screw and the hole align.
For the dyno sessions we simply screw it to the carb. When all the jetting is done and we are happy with it, we glue the screw into place with threadlock.
The stator plate is adjusted to 18°. This equals to th “IT” marking at the plate.
Carb and rotary valve inlet are prepared and ready!
Now the bare casings can be filled up with all the internals that make a good engine.
For the gear box we opted for a complete P200 gearbox with layshaft, pre-assembled and in Original Equipment Manufacturer quality. Not a good idea to cut corners here. Because it is pre-assembled only, we dismantle it, double check it and re-fit it with attention to the gear box play.
To hold it properly in place, we fit the gearbox cruciform with a drop of threadlock.
Gear wheels, securing clip and Gangräder, Seeger- und the gear box shims look like this when assembled.
The gear box needs to be shimmed properly. Otherwise problems will occure. The right tolerance is 0.05mm-0.15mm. The best way to check if everything is spot on, is to use two feeler gauges. For new shims you should go for the tighter tolerances. The surface wears much more than with shims that were already used for a few thousand kilometeres.
The easiest and best way to fit the inner track of the flywheel bearing is to use the proper tool for it.
Now we are ready to get the bearing kit fitted to the engine casings. The only proper way is to heat the casing or freeze the bearings or even better do both. If this is done fitting is a job that could be done in the Kindergarten.
To safe time we cooled the bearings down with our cooling spray.
The exception of the rule are the small needle bearings. Those should be fitted with the right tool additionally.
The flywheel side bearing should be guided with the right tool for the job.
For the B188-bearing it is a good idea to consult a good persuader to get it properly fitted into place.
When you the bearings in place, there is the time to get the oil seal set fitted.Normally fitting the oil seal shouldn’t disturb the work flow too much. Much more patience is needed to get the bearing needles of the Xmas tree in place. To give each needle a good smear wih a nice grease does help very much here. Every needle should be counted and the end result needs to be 21.
The Kickstart sprocket and Shaft are the only parts remaining at the workbench, while the engine is waiting for those.
One to watch! Don’t forget to fit the kickstart spring, holding it in place with some grease is advisable.
Now the crank is fitted and the casing halfs can be put together.
The engine casing studs are torqued down evenly.
The oil gear drive is fitted.
The drive wheel has one washer on each side. At the picture there is only the securing ring missing that holds the wheel tightly in place.
After the oil pump wheel is fitted with the fine smear of oil, the gaer can be put onto the crank. There is a chamfered side at the wheel this side should face forward to the engine casing. Otherwise the whhel and crank could touch. Mainly depending at the crank design.
Once fitted you can see the beauty and nice design of the bgm crankshaft together with double lipped oil seal.
One of the most important thing is to get the power of the top end transmitted to the bottom end. Therefore we highly recommend the well proved bgm Superstrong clutch.
Design to be used with 10 clutc springs there are plenty of variations to cope any power!
For the expected power delivery we opt for 10 XL springs.
Once again: oil! This time to lubricate wave designed hub.
Now we are going to fit the clutch sprocket and clutch plates. If you are going to purchase a complete bgm SUPERSTRONG all this will be done for you. And you receive a complete Plug & Play unit.
For first fitment some drops of oil will do it!
For the steel plates the positining of the curved one is of importance.
This one needs to be slightly bended, only a few tenths of a millimeter to get the clutch working properly right from the start of the lever action.
If the plates, steel platees and securing clip are fitted it is done.
The self locking nut is tightened to 60Nm.
Once the engine is completed, the proper tuning action can start. Tomorrow we are going to have a look for the port timings!
